| 04/06/2006 at 20.37
Right, I'm in Germany in the southern Town of Kirchheim near Stuttgart. I'm here doing a documentary for the World Cup. I'm having a great time and I'll keep all of you posted on what's going on out here.
Not too many fans yet, but a nice beer festival and a bike race in Kirchheim was todays highlight.
06/06/2006 at 14.06
After our trip into Kirchheim on Sunday, we travelled further afield on monday. A 3 hour car drive south to the German Swiss boarder saw us arrive in Friedrichshafen. On the banks of lake constance (Germanys largest lake) I could see across to Switzerland and I enjoyed seeing the Alps for the first time.
We then travelled into Friedrichshafen to see Friedrichshafen V Iran. The home team was made up of a few Bundersliga players and players from the around the area. 0-0 was the first half scoreline after Iran (Playing in all red) were thwarted by agile Goalkeeping and then upright in a dull first 45. The second half was a different affair. A few substitutes from Iran saw more first team players and it began to show as Iran ran in 5 goals in a fast flowing and entertaining second half.
The fans were jubilant in the small athletics stadium that was packed with 5,000 paying spectators from Germany and Iran. I think myself and 2 of the crew were the only 3 Brits there. After the game we met up with one of our Iranian contacts who we conducted a brief interview with. He is the DJ for the Iranian national team. At just 17, he is responsible for the music played at the Iran games as their are strict rules on what can and can't be played at the games.
There was a large police presence at the stadium as recent anti-Israeli comments have received support from Neo-Nazi groups in Germany. The police feared protests and possible clashes with the violent Nazi group, but there was no confrontation and only 2 Nazi's were ejected by the German police.
We then ate at the stadium restaurant and after made the 3 hour drive through the mist in southern Germany back to Kirchheim.
Today is a day off and we are about to go into Kirchheim and do some shopping. Gnter and Brigette (Our hosts) have told us to buy an England flag so we can hang it from the balcony alongside the German Flag. We are very welcomed here and the food has been fantastic. It's meat and German sausages. Lets just say it's a good job none of us are Veggies.
The documentary is about Iranian Football fans at the world cup. There are strict rules in place in Iran about who can go to games in Iran and for many the world cup is the only time they can see the "Stars of Persia". We have 2 crews in Germany and 2 more in Iran itself. It's a student film and it will be very interesting.
08/06/2006 at 00.27
Today it was Stuttgart. We boarded an ultra clean train from Kirchheim to Stuttgart. The trip was 45 minutes with the highlight being a large smoke chimney with massive letters on it spelling out "DICK".
Preperations in Stuttgart for the world cup are frantic. The town square is being transformed into a massive viewing area for multiple big screens. Fencing currently surrounds the centre as there is large scale building work going on. There are loads of beer tents and flags and scarf shops being built around the square. Burger vans and beer vans were franticlyey jockeying for the best positions.
The stadium in Stuttgart is already heavily guarded. Everyone has passes and the stadium looks ready for the first game (France V Switzerland) on Tuesday 13th June.
Near the stadium is a concert arena where 50 Cent was playing tonight. It was interesting to see all the German fans dressed up like "Fiddy".
I had to spend 3 euros to get the Guardian here to hear the latest news from back home and the latest news about Rooney.
Football is everywhere here. Bookshops, Chemists, Opticians and Banks all have footballs and world cup written in the windows. The atmosphere is building and the weather is getting warmer. We can't wait for the start.
09/06/2006 at 01.56
On Thursday we visited Stuttgart again. Leaving Kirchheim at 8pm we arrived in Stuttgart and met up with one of our featured Iranian fans, Sinan. He was at the train station waiting for the arrival of his uncle from Iran.
He waited on the platform with his mother, younger brother and cousin as we filmed the train pull in. His uncle came off the train and he walked down the platform and the family embraced. The uncle then gave each of his family and white Iranian home shirt and a matching white Iranian baseball cap. It had been over six months since they had last seen each other and the current political troubles have been on there minds. It was great to see the family re-united, if only for a brief time, brought back together for the love of the game.
12/06/2006 at 13.40
Friday 9th June
We got up late as we had a late shoot the night before. Iain, Kurt and I went to play football at a local pitch and we missed much of the opening ceremony. We sat down with the Gerstenberger's with food and nibbles to watch the first game Germany V Costa Rica. Nina and Brigette were so animated throughout the game. Jumping up and down and hiding behind pillows and then tossing them to the ground when Germany gave the ball away. The eventual score was 4-2 to Germany and you would have thought that they'd won the World Cup. "It's only Costa Rica" i said to Kurt. We then watched the surprise win of Ecuador over Poland before retiring for the night.
Saturday 10th June
Here we go again. Got up late again, and the nerves began. Had some light breakfast before we travelled by bus into Kirchheim at around 12:30 local time. With my England shirt on and the St.Georges cross draped across Iain's shoulders we certainly looked the part. We sat in comfortable camping chairs in front of one of the big screens in the town and prepared ourselves for what I had predicted to be a frustraiting 90.
The early goal settled the nerves. We cheered as Iain and I were the only two English fans there. There were some Germans who were kitted out in English gear, but they were not vocal. There was only about 30 people watching the game. We were suffering in the heat as were the players. We simply can't understand Sven's substitutions. It seems that if England have a weak point, it is certainly him.
After the game I could finally eat. More meat with bread and onions. We then went and sat outside a pub and watched the Sweden V Trinidad and Argentina and Ivory Coast games. Sitting down, drinking and eating potato wedges and chicken wings was really tough. We met one of Ninas friends and I also made friends with the waiter who served us. We finally got back home at midnight. What a great day.
Sunday June 11th
It was back to work today. An early start and 300Km (180 Mile) drive taking 3 hours 30 minutes saw us arrive in Nrnburg for Mexico V Iran. Gnter is truely a legend for driving us to locations for shoots. We are going to get him a present for all his hard work.
First we went to the town center. Recent anti-Israeli comment from the Iranian president have seen support from Neo Nazi groups in Germany. The radio suggested trouble, but we didn't see any. We did how ever film a demonstration from Amnesty International as Mexico and Iran fans walked past. Upon arrival at the entrance point to the stadium we met up with Sinan and his uncle. We brought a football with us so we could film them playing. Sinans uncle had a ticket, but his family didn't have any. We filmed his Uncle go through the gate and off to the match. We couldn't see the stadium as it was all fenced off and hidden by trees.
We then went to the fan festival in Nrnburg. There was a massive big screen televising the game, and loads of shops and bars to get food and drinks, but for a high price. So surrounded by tens of thousands of Mexico and Iran fans and in the shadow of the large arena where Hitler held his Nrnburg rally to 500,000 people, we sat at a picnic table and soaked up the sun and watched the game.
The Mexico fans outnumbered the Iranian fans 7:1 and so the place went crazy when Mexico took the lead. Iran replied before the break adding to the atmosphere and setting up good second half. The place went crazy when Mexico scored two quick goals in succession. I got some amazing photos and Iain got some incredible footage. One Mexico fans decided that he would try and stand on the table of the American fans sitting on the next table to us. He promptly fell off and sent the Americans beer flying all over the place. I got covered, as did the Americans, but it was quiet funny.
After the game we met up with Sinans uncle again and he was disappointed but still proud of his team. We then travelled back to the car and waited an hour until 10pm to see if we could meet up with on of the other film crews working on the project. We didn't, much to our displeasure as we were so tired after lugging all that equipment around in the hot sun.
The trip home took just as long and as I was suffering from cramp it seemed twice as long. I went straight to bed as soon as we got back to Kirchheim and slept for about 11 hours.
The world cup is well underway now and we are off to Stuttgart on Tuesday as France and Switzerland are in town.
13/06/2006 at 23.26
Tuesday 13th June
Today was the earliest start so far. I was up at 7am and it was already 20C. We arrived at Sinans school in Stuttgart at around 10am to film him playing football for his school. There were teams from all the schools in the local area to take part in a competition.
8 teams fought in 2 group stages with the winners and 2nd place going on to the semis in the 7 minute games taking place on a 5-aside pitch.
Sinans team won their group as Iain filmed and I reeled off about 100 pictures. Sinans team conceded a late second goal in their semi and all seemed lost. However two desperate late strikes saw the game go to penalties (or as the Germans call "11 meter"). Only 3 kicks were to be taken by each team. Sinans team crashed out 3-2 on penalties.
However, Sinans team did win the 3rd place playoff penalty shoot out and claimed a deserved medal. The games had all finished by 14:30 and we travelled into Stuttgart. At a sizzling 35C we sat at a cafe where we ate lunch and watched the South Korea v Togo game. The heat was too much and we refreshed ourselves cupping our hand with water from a fountain.
We arrived at the main square at 16:00 where the "Fan Festival" was located and after being searched we entered and met up with 35,000 Switzerland and France fans. The French were surprisingly quiet whilst the Swiss shouted and rang their cattle bells in support of their team.
Due to the heat and a lack of late trains we left the big screens at around 19:30 shortly before the end of the Swiss v France game. On the main street of shops Brazilian fans were getting ready for their later tie with Croatia with a traditional Samba dance. The music was fantastic and so were the fans.
On the train ride home we passed the Stuttgart stadium. I could see the backs of Swiss fans in the back row of the stands watching the game that was still ongoing. I looked at them with envy. I could have got in to see the game, but the 800 Euros or 550 Pounds I had been quoted by a tout seemed rather ridiculous, in what turned out to be a scoreless draw.
We returned home shortly after the start of the Brazil game where we are currently planning tomorrows activities. Further interviews with Sinan and his uncle are planned, and also a trip back to the Fan Festival for the hosts second game against Poland tomorrow night.
15/06/2006 at 12.18
Wednesday 14th June
Again we travelled to Stuttgart. This time we met up with Sinans uncle Mohammed and we interviewed him in a local park. He gave us two packets of traditional Iranian nuts as a thank you for telling his and Sinans stories.
We then went to the same cafe where we have had lunch on previous days to watch the Germany V Poland game. The atmosphere in Stuttgart was great and the place went crazy when they scored their last minute winner. The walk back to the train station was amazing with flags everywhere and everyone was singing and cheering. The train was packed but I was lucky enough to get a seat. Next to me was a Brazilian football fan from Sao Paulo. He and I exchanged football stories for the 45 minute journey until we arrived at our station.
We then went off to a party at about 1am as it was the birthday of a friend of Brigettes. We English were quiet a hit at the party as there was a fussball table and everyone wanted to play the English so Iain and I took on most of the people there. We did well considering neither Iain or I ever play table football as we won 3 and lost 3. We didn't get back until 4am.
It is truly an amazing atmosphere out here and it's fantastic being at the world cup. The only problem is the weather. It is so hot out here and it really makes carrying all the equipment for the film a lot harder.
On Thursday we are off to Stuttgart again to interview Sinan in the same park where we filmed Mohammed and we will then go to the "Fan Fest" to watch England V Trinidad & Tobago.
19/06/2006 at 17.57
Thursday 15th June
In a change of plan we travelled into Stuttgart at 2pm to interview Sinan at his school about the football competition 2 days earlier and about his thoughts on the Iran team. After an hour we travelled into the town centre to the Fan Fest in the main square. We found a good spot and readied ourselves along with 100 or so England fans for the England v Trinidad & Tobago game.
After a very frustrating 83 minutes Crouch's header sent us crazy. The few dozen Trinidad fans and the 200 hundred or so Holland fans (Holland were in town the next day) who were supporting the Caribbean side were disappointed.
The England fans were singing and dancing and Iain was busy watching them as Gerrard struck the second. The first Iain knew about the goal was me running past him shouting and jumping up and down with my St Georges flag.
After the game I had the England flag waving out of the window as we drove down a Stuttgart street and we were joined by fans of Ivory Coast waving their flag. Smiles and waves were exchanged until we took our exit back to Kirchheim.
Friday 16th June
Today was a day off for us, but my spirits were not high. Green with envy, I watched as Nina and Gnter left at 3pm to go to Stuttgart to see Holland V Ivory Coast. Last year they applied for tickets for the match on this date but they didn't know who would be playing. The luck of the draw (which took place on December 9th 2005) gave them one of the best group stage fixtures. They both came back after a memorable day with smiles on their faces. We had watched the game at home, but we failed to spot them in the stadium.
The day did have a high and that was the spectacular team goal scored by Argentina in their 6-0 Demolition of Serbia & Montenegro. They look like the strongest team at the moment and are a lot of peoples tip for the prize.
Saturday 17th June
Leaving at 1pm the destination was once again the Fan Fest in Stuttgart. Sinan was there to watch the must win game for Iran as they took on Portugal. He was handing out flyers for an Iranian party that night to which we were invited. After a 2-0 loss Iran were out of the World Cup. Sinan left disappointed, but we were to meet up with him later at the party.
We stayed as fans arrived for the next game. It was a highlight of the World Cup. Ghanas 2-0 defeat of Czech Republic sent the 100 Ghanain fans present crazy. This meant amazing footage for us and great photos for me. The rhythmic drums rumbled across the square as they left to party in Stuttgart.
We left at 8:30pm and walked to the park where we had filmed Mohammed and eventually found "Cafe am See, NIL" where the party was taking place. After watching the ill tempered Italy V USA game and some food the party began. Everyone was enjoying themselves despite Irans exit from the finals just hours earlier. However, we were busy filming. Getting various shot we finished shooting at around 1am, and we eventually got back at 3am.
Sunday 18th June
After a busy day yesterday we had a welcome day off. I spent most of it in the pool that Brigitte and Gnter had kindly filled for us as this was a very hot day. Kurt, Iain and I stupid felt the urge to play football in +30C heat. We went down to the local pitch were we met some German guys. 5 of them, 3 of us. Incredibly we won, but we suffered from the heat. As soon as we got back i was straight in the pool once more. Vey refreshing indeed.
The hot night threatened thunder and needed rain, but none came. I spent most of the night in the caravan awake listening through the open window to the Church bells calling out the hours in the distance. We have an early start tomorrow.
Monday 19th June
5am start and again into Stuttgart. I was a sad moment as we filmed Mohammed at the train station as he departed to return to Iran. Sinans mum was crying and we all felt as if one of our friends had left. We have been invited to stay with Mohammed in Iran whenever we want. We have his email and his address. I will be sending him CDs of the photos I have taken of him and his family during the film-making.
We were back home by 9am and Brigette had cooked us an English breakfast. It was brilliant, no baked beans though as they are hard to come by in Germany. The rest of the day was spent in the pool and down the football pitch on this cooler day. Tomorrow is a big day with both England and Germany playing their final group games. By 11pm tomorrow night we will know if England will play Germany in Stuttgart.
21/06/2006 at 13.47
Tuesday 20th June
Today was a big day for ourselves and our hosts. Both England and Germany were playing and if the results went a certain way then England could be facing Germany in the second round.
Iain, Kurt and I travelled into Kirchheim at around 15:30 Local time to watch Germany V Ecuador. All the bars and screens were packed with German fans, but after a searching for 20 minutes we found a spot in a bar called "Touch". This Hard rock cafe wannabe bar was full of fans, but we just about managed to get a place.
As the guitar playing plastic Elvis looked on Germany dispatched of Ecuador with ease to win the group. England now only had to avoid defeat to win the group and prevent a clash with the hosts in the last 16.
We left "Touch" and after eating a Kebab most of the German fans had left and we got a seat at our favourite "Golden Bear" pub where we had made friends with one of the waiters who is also the local postman.
The game got underway and England suffered their first blow. Owen is out of the World Cup. We are all gutted as England now only have 3 fit strikers. However England played their best football for the first 45 minutes with Joe Cole scoring as wonder goal from 25 yards. 1-0 at the break and my nerves had eased. The second half began and England were simply awful. The equalizer was meet by cheers by the Aussie fans on the table next to us. I could hear Alan Hansen in my head commenting on Englands "Terrible Defending". Thought the second half our hearts were in our mouths as we were only spared by the Crossbar, an instinctive save by Robinson and a Gerrard clearance off the line. I was shocked and delighted at Englands second goal, but horrified at the Statuesque defending for Swedens second equalizer. The final whistle went and I was so relieved.
We sat and talked with the Aussies for about half an hour before returning home.
England now face Ecuador in Stuttgart. We will be going to the Fan Fest in Stuttgart for the game on Sunday. On Saturday Bob Geldof is there so we plan to make a trip in then as well.
Wednesday is another day off and we get to enjoy the delights of Argentina V Holland and Portugal V Mexico and on Thursday we have the visit of Sinan and his mother for a BBQ.
27/06/2006 at 20.47
Wednesday 21st June
Today was a Day off. We watched Portugal V Mexico (2-1) and I was tired after yesterdays England game so I had a nap and slept through the Argentina V Holland game (0-0).
Thursday 22nd June
Today Sinan, his younger bother, his mother and a family friend came to the house in Kirchheim to have a BBQ with us. This was a great chance for us to bond with our main characters in our film. Whilst Kurt, Iain and I took Sinan and his brother off to play football, Nina spoke with Sinans mum. She had a great talk with her and we found out a lot more about her and her families past in Iran. Sinans father was a Minister in Iran and the family was well off. Sinans mother was an intellectual and studied hard and was gaining qualifications. Unfortunately women are seen as second citizens in Iran and her husband did not like the fact that she was becoming more intelligent than he was. We have learnt that she was abused by her husband due to this. Only men can divorce women and women have no say in the matter. She couldn't divorce him and if she left him she would face imprisonment and would not be able to see her sons again. So in desperation she left her husband and her home in the middle of the night taking Sinan and his younger brother with her and they became refugees.
During this conversation we gained the trust of Sinans mother and she gave us permission to film their one room in the refugee home. This is very personal for her as she is embarrassed by her small room that she, Sinan and her youngest son have to live in. This permission to film in her home allows us to make the film far more personal and this will express their situation in greater detail.
Friday 23rd June
Today I sent a postcard home as today was another free day. We watched the last of the group games with Switzerland beating Tunisia (1-0) and France's victory over Togo (2-0).
Saturday 24th June
A family friend visited us in the morning and we had lunch and tea with him. Mike has lead an interesting life. At 37 he had lived in America for 4 years giving him a unique German-American accent when speaking English. Mike received the nick-name "Lucky Strike Mike" after he went out to the local petrol station and bought their whole stock of Lucky Stirke Tobacco for Iain and Kurt as a gift. Kurt and Iain thought it was Christmas.
Germany kicked off the knockout stage with their game against Sweden. We all travelled into Kirchhiem as it was the town festival over the weekend. There were stalls selling all types of food and various forms of entertainment. We met up with Ninas friend Lucas who I sat next to during the game. He was full of questions about the English language to which his knowledge was excellent. He asked about British football terminology and he particularly liked the phrase "Stick it in the onion bag" which I shared with him. Germany won the game 2-0 with an impressive performance. This sparked wild celebrations with the main street coming to a stand-still with fans rocking cars in celebration.
We then sat at our favourite pub (The Golden Bear) and we watched Argentina beat Mexico 2-1 after extra time. We also enjoyed fantastic live music from two of the towns finest guitar players, one of which is from Wales. We had a great conversation with him and after visiting a few more pubs we returned home at 3am the next morning. |
